The tourist trade is now Hoi An\'s bread and butter, and justabout every business in town is geared to it. Restaurants offer menus oflocal specialties and American breakfasts, tailors offer suits made inless than 24 hours. It can easily feel like one giant showcase withlittle in the way of an independent life of its own. Yes, it\'s a big tourist trap, but even so -- it\'s an excellent tourist trap that shouldn\'t be missed. Most people who visit are charmed, and even cynics will likely seek an excuse to justify liking it.

Historians believe that Hoi An was founded more than 2,000 years ago as a primitive portfor the Sa Huynh people, thanks to evidence from archaeologicalexcavations which have also pointed towards early trade with the Handynasty in China. Through to the 15th century, the port was absorbedinto the Kingdom of Champa and was known first as Lam Ap and later asFaifo. During this period, it developed into a prosperous trading portvisited by trading fleets from as far afield as the Arabian peninsula.As a hub of regional trade, Hoi An brought considerable affluence to theChampa Kingdom, evidence of which can be seen at nearby My Son.

The number of traders visiting Hoi An escalated as the centuries marchedon, with the Portuguese, Dutch, British and French all making anappearance, along with the ever-present Chinese, Japanese and Indians.The majority of Hoi An\'s most beautiful buildings were constructed from the 15th to 19th centuries.

Hoi An\'s star began to fade as trade slowly moved north to the larger and more industrial port of Da Nang.Today, little trade occurs aside from tourist boats, and onlysmall-scale fishing boats use the port commercially. The foreignvisitors are no longer traders, but tourists. Many visitors pass throughquickly, catching a glimpse of the colourful atmosphere, and perhapshaving a rush order put through on a suit or a dress. However, thosewilling to stick around a little longer will be rewarded. The townconceals a dozen or so engaging historical attractions, and the areaoffers beaches and ruins worth some daytrips. And most importantly,those who linger in town will get to see the real life lurking behindHoi An\'s faded facade.

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  My Son Holy Land

  Located 60 kilometers from Hoi An this UNESCO declared World Heritage Site houses 17 temples and towers of 13th and 14th centuries belonging to the Champa people. see full details

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  Beaches, Islands and Lagoons

   These are the most popular Hoi An tourist attractions. Among the beaches the Cua Dai Beach famous for sunbath and fresh seafood is widely visited. Cham islands , a cluster of 7 island and Hai Van Pass with hills, valleys and lagoons are no less popular. see full details

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  Temples and Shrines

   These are the most visited places for sightseeing in Hoi An. The prominent among them are the Tran Family Worship House built in 1802 by the Tran family, the ethnic Chinese shrine called Truong Family Chapel, Japanese Tombs, Quang Trieu Assembly Hall and Phuc Kien Assembly Hall. see full details

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  Old Houses

   Phung Hung Old House believed to be built in 1798 is the most visited among all others. This three storied house has a mix of Chinese and Japanese structural designs and used to be a shop house of merchants. The other similar Old Houses in Hoi An are the 200 year old Tan Ky Old House, the well preserved Quan Thang Old House and the Diep Dong Nguyen Old House. see full details

• Entertainment

        see full details

Hoi An sits on a peninsula among a cluster of islands on a wide riverdelta -- the main branch passing through town is called the Thu Bon, butin general seems to also go by the name Cua Dai Estuary. As you\'refacing south from the Japansese Bridge, you\'re looking at anotherparallel peninsula. Beyond that, visible to the east, is Cam Nam Island,and beyond that, to the west, is Cam Kim Island. Cam Nam is accessibleby bridge or boat, and Cam Kim is accessible only by boat.

The Heritage Town is roughly within the area south of Phan Chu Trinh,west of Hoang Dieu (which connects to Cam Nam Bridge), and it extendseast past the Japanese Bridge along Nguyen Thai Minh Khai St until itreaches the roundabout. The southern border is, of course, the river.The Heritage Town is closed off to motorised vehicles on various daysthroughout the week, though there seems to be no fixed schedule. Even ifyou rent a motorbike you may find yourself needing a bicycle to getaround the area on such days -- these are widely available for 10,000VND a day. You can also just get off your motorbike and push it throughthe closed off area.

ATMs are widely available (they really want you to cash up andspend here!). Most of your banking needs can be met by heading to theintersection of Tran Hung Dao and Hai Ba Trung Streets. To the north ofthe intersection on the left is the Vietcom Bank -- no ATM but they cashtravellers cheques for dong at no commission and offer credit cardadvances at 3.3%. They also receive, but do not send, Moneygrams. TheTechCom Bank is north of the intersection, kitty-corner to the Vinh Hung2 Hotel. They have a 24-hour ATM, do not cash travellers cheques atall, and offer credit card advances at 3%. Western Union is availablehere. Sacombank is on Tran Hung Dao, to the east of the intersection,next to Treat\'s Same-Same But Different Cafe. They cash TCs for 2%commission or US$2 per transaction, whichever is more, and credit cardadvances are available at 3% commission. They also have a 24-hour ATM.

Internet is available everywhere, though rates vary widely and itmay save you a couple of dong to find a place that doesn\'t cater totourists. Many hotels make free internet terminals available in thelobby to their guests only. Power outages are frequent and connectionscan be spotty.

The main post office is on Tran Hung Dao St at the corner ofHoang Dieu. It\'s got a nice interior -- take a look up at the woodcarvings in the ceilings -- and provides chilly air-con and nice desksto sit at and write postcards. The internet here is a good value at3,000 VND per hour and there\'s usually a free terminal.

There are several ticket stalls run by the Hoi An Office of Tourist Services where you can buy tickets for the Culture Touron the corner of Le Loi and Tran Phu, on the corner of Hai Ba Trung andThan Phu, and on Tran Phu between Hoang Van Thu and Tran Quy Cap.

The main hospital is across the street from the post office on Tran Hung Dao.

The pier most boats for Cham Island depart from is called the Coast Guard Pier,because there\'s a Coast Guard office there. Once you take Cua Dai Rd tothe beach, it\'s about 5km south. But, in all likelihood, you\'ll bedriven there.